Out of House & Home: Sampling some of P-Town's best house infusions

These days, mixing cocktails is kind of like chemistry class. Suddenly, we’re seeing liquid nitrogen ice cream infused with liqueur, whiskey marshmallows and gin-and-tonic jellies served on lime chips. Mixologists across the city are dazzling us with ingredient lists that read like grocery lists. We’d like to say we were first in line when they invented the rum-based equivalent of Pop Rocks. But when faced with such oddities, we are creatures of habit, always ordering our Jager with a PBR back or the standard vodka and diet. We’d like to branch out, but does our hurricane have to erupt like a science experiment? Personally, we prefer a more organic approach to cocktail chemistry—namely, a good old-fashioned infusion.
Whether you’re a vodka drinker or a whiskey hound, this town is rich with bars that offer house-infused liquors for all tastes. From the common—a vanilla or pepper vodka—to the downright bizarre, like a bacon-infused vodka, PDX’s creative spirit goes way beyond the canvas or the stage.
At Camellia Lounge (510 NW 11th Ave, 221-2130, teazone.com), nestled inside The Tea Zone, bartender Conor admits that they use tea in all their cocktails. And no, their menu doesn’t read like $5 Long Island night at the local meat market. Instead, it’s a surprisingly creative array of cocktails for bourbon, vodka, rum and gin drinkers alike. Try a sweet Manhattan made with rooibos vanilla bourbon, Southern Comfort and muddled orange (the Southern Honey); or for a refreshing summer treat, opt for the Mango Madras, an in-house favorite using mango black tea-infused vodka, orange juice and hibiscus juice. Gin drinker? Try the Sunset on the Empire, which simply mixes Darjeeling-infused Beefeater Gin and tonic with a little bit of lime. What’s more, Camellia is maybe the only spot in Portland where you’ll find alcoholic bubble teas.
Also in the Pearl District is the cozy, yet classy Paragon Restaurant (1309 NW Hoyt St, 833-5060, paragonrestaurant.com), which is not to be confused with the now defunct Paragon Club on North Interstate. The Pearl’s Paragon is known for classic American cuisine, but their signature cocktails made with house-infused vodka, tequila and rum really take center stage. Think cocktails aren’t good for you? Think again. For health-conscious drinkers, Paragon offers up their Antioxidant Elixir with their own house-made Blueberry Skyy Vodka, pomegranate juice and lemonade. Or, if your tummy is a little bit shaky, try the Crater Lake Cooler with Marionberry Crater Lake Vodka, Reed’s Extra Ginger Brew and orange bitters (both the ginger brew and the bitters stave off queasiness).
Just a few blocks away is Clyde Common (1014 SW Stark St, 228-3333, clydecommon.com), currently basking in the good fortune of having one of the top five Portland bartenders, Kevin Ludwig, at their helm. Ludwig is set to open his much-anticipated Beaker & Flask (720 SE Sandy Blvd, beakerandflask.com) with another Portland on-the-rocks-star, Lance Mayhew, in September. The opening will round out what is now becoming known as the Distillery District (see next month’s neighborhood feature for more information). In the meantime, he is bringing his talent for mixology to the menu at Clyde. Known for never taking a shortcut to a good cocktail, Ludwig often makes everything he can from scratch, whether it’s a house infusion or his infamous homemade tonic.
Not far from Clyde is the effervescent Saucebox (214 SW Broadway, 241-3393, saucebox.com), which for more than 10 years has been a go-to spot for clever cocktails. Besides their signature house-made cordials (like fennel, cherry, chestnut, hibiscus, macadamia nut, strawberry or mango, just to name a few) they also have nearly a dozen house-infused spirits (like kaffir lime gin, cucumber vodka, Thai chili tequila and lemon grass vodka), which can be served in cocktails or on their own. Saucebox’s cocktail menu—nicknamed “the Bible”—is extensive, but some popular summertime concoctions are the Mirrorball (watermelon vodka, lemon-lime, cranberry juice and Prosecco) or the decadent Frozen Chocolate Banana (vanilla vodka, muddled bananas, Godiva White Chocolate, crème de cacao and cream). Or, if you are truly feeling daring, try the Samurai Mary, a vindictive blend of Thai chili vodka, wasabi, Worcestershire, soy sauce and akvavit. Don’t bother ordering a water back, that will only make it worse. Instead, order a pupu platter and soothe your tongue with some sweet potato spring rolls.
Also downtown is the ever-popular Gilt Club (306 NW Broadway, 222-4458, giltclub.com), whose summer menu includes a house-infused strawberry vodka with fresh lemon, fig balsamic vinegar and a twist (a.k.a. My Friend Sarah); or try the Summer Camp, made with gin infused with tangerine, campari and sweet vermouth. For more information on Gilt Club, check out our feature on them in the June issue (“Olive U”) or online at pdxmagazine.com.
The granddaddy of downtown infusion spots (if by sheer number alone) is the quiet but noteworthy Voleur (111 SW Ash St, 227-3764, voleurrestaurant.com). With more than 20 infusions at the ready, they have a bevy of cocktails on hand whether you favor the “tini” type drink or something more classic. The Mango Margarita is worth the trip alone, not too sweet and perfect on a hot day.
Not to be outdone, the north side of the river offers some noteworthy spots for kicked-up spirits as well. In the Alberta District, stop by Siam Society (2703 NE Alberta St, 922-3675, siamsociety.com), where they have a killer cosmopolitan made with ginger and lime-infused Skyy vodka that apparently won a statewide bartending award. Grab an order of their lettuce wraps and order up a jalapeno-pear kamikaze. (Side note: The balance of sweet, tart and spicy in this drink is almost enough to make me forget about that ill-advised kamikaze shoot-out of my early 20s. Almost.) Another favorite amongst the locals is Siam’s Ambassador, which consists of pineapple-infused dark rum, Lapsang Suchang tea and coconut milk cream. It’s sweet talk in a glass. Which, come to think of it, explains why it’s the ambassador.
In the burgeoning North Portland neighborhood, there’s always Mint/820 (816 N Russell St, 284-5518, mintrestaurant.com), whose owner Lucy Brennen (also one of the top five in town) put Portland on the cocktail map. If you stop by, try the Ruby, a blushing doll made of beet-infused vodka with a splash of lemon-lime. Next, swing by Moloko Plus (3967 N Mississippi Ave, 288-6272), where they boast more than 20 house infusions. A stark-white interior lends to the airiness of the place, inspiring guests to sip cocktails such as the Ultra Moloko, a combination of house-made coconut rum, infused vanilla vodka, Godiva liqueur and Frangelico. Other surefire hits are the Mint-Ginger Lemonade and The Sprained Ankle. With Raspberry puree, habenero chile, lime and Tequila, it’s way more fun than its namesake.
Finally, I have to address the aforementioned pig candy (bacon-infused vodka). Yes, there is such a thing and you can find it dancing with the bloody mary mix at The Florida Room (435 N Killingsworth St, 287-5658). Stop by on Saturday or Sunday for the Church of the Bloody Mary brunch. You’ll be a convert within no time.
It’s plain to see that Portland is practically silly with infusions. It’s no wonder, really, when it opens the door up to such creative combinations. So, belly up and get ready to open your mind, because you never know what might end up in your cocktail shaker next.

Want to experiment with infusions in your own kitchen? Here are some simple recipes to try.

Kumquat Vanilla Vodka

16 Kumquats, sliced in half
2 Vanilla beans, broken into bits
One 750-ml bottle of good quality vodka

Place all ingredients in a clean, airtight glass container and let stand in a cool, dark place (like a cupbord) for at least a week, shaking gently every two days. Taste the mixture to see if it has matured enough and, if not, allow it to sit for a few more days (but never more than two weeks). Strain the mixture through a coffee filter or cheese cloth-lined funnel until all sediment is removed and funnel back into the original bottle or an airtight decorative one. Keep chilled until ready to serve.

Pepper Bacon Booze

5 slices of good quality bacon, cooked
1 handful of peppercorns (optional)
One 750-ml bottle of good quality vodka or bourbon

Place all the ingredients in a clean, airtight glass container and let stand in a cool, dark place (like a cupboard) for three weeks, shaking gently every few days. Strain the mixture through a cheese cloth until all sediment is removed then place the jar in the freezer overnight to separate the fat residue from the alcohol. Filter again through a coffee filter. Keep chilled until ready to serve.

Did you DIY? Visit our blog and let us know how it turned out or to share some recipes of your own.