Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Out of House & Home: Sampling some of P-Town's best house infusions

These days, mixing cocktails is kind of like chemistry class. Suddenly, we’re seeing liquid nitrogen ice cream infused with liqueur, whiskey marshmallows and gin-and-tonic jellies served on lime chips. Mixologists across the city are dazzling us with ingredient lists that read like grocery lists. We’d like to say we were first in line when they invented the rum-based equivalent of Pop Rocks. But when faced with such oddities, we are creatures of habit, always ordering our Jager with a PBR back or the standard vodka and diet. We’d like to branch out, but does our hurricane have to erupt like a science experiment? Personally, we prefer a more organic approach to cocktail chemistry—namely, a good old-fashioned infusion.
Whether you’re a vodka drinker or a whiskey hound, this town is rich with bars that offer house-infused liquors for all tastes. From the common—a vanilla or pepper vodka—to the downright bizarre, like a bacon-infused vodka, PDX’s creative spirit goes way beyond the canvas or the stage.
At Camellia Lounge (510 NW 11th Ave, 221-2130, teazone.com), nestled inside The Tea Zone, bartender Conor admits that they use tea in all their cocktails. And no, their menu doesn’t read like $5 Long Island night at the local meat market. Instead, it’s a surprisingly creative array of cocktails for bourbon, vodka, rum and gin drinkers alike. Try a sweet Manhattan made with rooibos vanilla bourbon, Southern Comfort and muddled orange (the Southern Honey); or for a refreshing summer treat, opt for the Mango Madras, an in-house favorite using mango black tea-infused vodka, orange juice and hibiscus juice. Gin drinker? Try the Sunset on the Empire, which simply mixes Darjeeling-infused Beefeater Gin and tonic with a little bit of lime. What’s more, Camellia is maybe the only spot in Portland where you’ll find alcoholic bubble teas.
Also in the Pearl District is the cozy, yet classy Paragon Restaurant (1309 NW Hoyt St, 833-5060, paragonrestaurant.com), which is not to be confused with the now defunct Paragon Club on North Interstate. The Pearl’s Paragon is known for classic American cuisine, but their signature cocktails made with house-infused vodka, tequila and rum really take center stage. Think cocktails aren’t good for you? Think again. For health-conscious drinkers, Paragon offers up their Antioxidant Elixir with their own house-made Blueberry Skyy Vodka, pomegranate juice and lemonade. Or, if your tummy is a little bit shaky, try the Crater Lake Cooler with Marionberry Crater Lake Vodka, Reed’s Extra Ginger Brew and orange bitters (both the ginger brew and the bitters stave off queasiness).
Just a few blocks away is Clyde Common (1014 SW Stark St, 228-3333, clydecommon.com), currently basking in the good fortune of having one of the top five Portland bartenders, Kevin Ludwig, at their helm. Ludwig is set to open his much-anticipated Beaker & Flask (720 SE Sandy Blvd, beakerandflask.com) with another Portland on-the-rocks-star, Lance Mayhew, in September. The opening will round out what is now becoming known as the Distillery District (see next month’s neighborhood feature for more information). In the meantime, he is bringing his talent for mixology to the menu at Clyde. Known for never taking a shortcut to a good cocktail, Ludwig often makes everything he can from scratch, whether it’s a house infusion or his infamous homemade tonic.
Not far from Clyde is the effervescent Saucebox (214 SW Broadway, 241-3393, saucebox.com), which for more than 10 years has been a go-to spot for clever cocktails. Besides their signature house-made cordials (like fennel, cherry, chestnut, hibiscus, macadamia nut, strawberry or mango, just to name a few) they also have nearly a dozen house-infused spirits (like kaffir lime gin, cucumber vodka, Thai chili tequila and lemon grass vodka), which can be served in cocktails or on their own. Saucebox’s cocktail menu—nicknamed “the Bible”—is extensive, but some popular summertime concoctions are the Mirrorball (watermelon vodka, lemon-lime, cranberry juice and Prosecco) or the decadent Frozen Chocolate Banana (vanilla vodka, muddled bananas, Godiva White Chocolate, crème de cacao and cream). Or, if you are truly feeling daring, try the Samurai Mary, a vindictive blend of Thai chili vodka, wasabi, Worcestershire, soy sauce and akvavit. Don’t bother ordering a water back, that will only make it worse. Instead, order a pupu platter and soothe your tongue with some sweet potato spring rolls.
Also downtown is the ever-popular Gilt Club (306 NW Broadway, 222-4458, giltclub.com), whose summer menu includes a house-infused strawberry vodka with fresh lemon, fig balsamic vinegar and a twist (a.k.a. My Friend Sarah); or try the Summer Camp, made with gin infused with tangerine, campari and sweet vermouth. For more information on Gilt Club, check out our feature on them in the June issue (“Olive U”) or online at pdxmagazine.com.
The granddaddy of downtown infusion spots (if by sheer number alone) is the quiet but noteworthy Voleur (111 SW Ash St, 227-3764, voleurrestaurant.com). With more than 20 infusions at the ready, they have a bevy of cocktails on hand whether you favor the “tini” type drink or something more classic. The Mango Margarita is worth the trip alone, not too sweet and perfect on a hot day.
Not to be outdone, the north side of the river offers some noteworthy spots for kicked-up spirits as well. In the Alberta District, stop by Siam Society (2703 NE Alberta St, 922-3675, siamsociety.com), where they have a killer cosmopolitan made with ginger and lime-infused Skyy vodka that apparently won a statewide bartending award. Grab an order of their lettuce wraps and order up a jalapeno-pear kamikaze. (Side note: The balance of sweet, tart and spicy in this drink is almost enough to make me forget about that ill-advised kamikaze shoot-out of my early 20s. Almost.) Another favorite amongst the locals is Siam’s Ambassador, which consists of pineapple-infused dark rum, Lapsang Suchang tea and coconut milk cream. It’s sweet talk in a glass. Which, come to think of it, explains why it’s the ambassador.
In the burgeoning North Portland neighborhood, there’s always Mint/820 (816 N Russell St, 284-5518, mintrestaurant.com), whose owner Lucy Brennen (also one of the top five in town) put Portland on the cocktail map. If you stop by, try the Ruby, a blushing doll made of beet-infused vodka with a splash of lemon-lime. Next, swing by Moloko Plus (3967 N Mississippi Ave, 288-6272), where they boast more than 20 house infusions. A stark-white interior lends to the airiness of the place, inspiring guests to sip cocktails such as the Ultra Moloko, a combination of house-made coconut rum, infused vanilla vodka, Godiva liqueur and Frangelico. Other surefire hits are the Mint-Ginger Lemonade and The Sprained Ankle. With Raspberry puree, habenero chile, lime and Tequila, it’s way more fun than its namesake.
Finally, I have to address the aforementioned pig candy (bacon-infused vodka). Yes, there is such a thing and you can find it dancing with the bloody mary mix at The Florida Room (435 N Killingsworth St, 287-5658). Stop by on Saturday or Sunday for the Church of the Bloody Mary brunch. You’ll be a convert within no time.
It’s plain to see that Portland is practically silly with infusions. It’s no wonder, really, when it opens the door up to such creative combinations. So, belly up and get ready to open your mind, because you never know what might end up in your cocktail shaker next.

Want to experiment with infusions in your own kitchen? Here are some simple recipes to try.


Kumquat Vanilla Vodka

16 Kumquats, sliced in half
2 Vanilla beans, broken into bits
One 750-ml bottle of good quality vodka

Place all ingredients in a clean, airtight glass container and let stand in a cool, dark place (like a cupbord) for at least a week, shaking gently every two days. Taste the mixture to see if it has matured enough and, if not, allow it to sit for a few more days (but never more than two weeks). Strain the mixture through a coffee filter or cheese cloth-lined funnel until all sediment is removed and funnel back into the original bottle or an airtight decorative one. Keep chilled until ready to serve.

Pepper Bacon Booze

5 slices of good quality bacon, cooked
1 handful of peppercorns (optional)
One 750-ml bottle of good quality vodka or bourbon

Place all the ingredients in a clean, airtight glass container and let stand in a cool, dark place (like a cupboard) for three weeks, shaking gently every few days. Strain the mixture through a cheese cloth until all sediment is removed then place the jar in the freezer overnight to separate the fat residue from the alcohol. Filter again through a coffee filter. Keep chilled until ready to serve.

Did you DIY? Visit our blog and let us know how it turned out or to share some recipes of your own.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Get Hitched! Get Tix!


By Hollyanna McCollom

The recession has everyone watching their wallets, but thanks to a few domestic tax breaks (i.e. buying a house, having a baby, etc) now is actually a pretty good time to get hitched. Earlier this year, Reuters reported that the recession has actually boosted American’s sense of romance. Blame it on the decrease in disposable income (“I don’t know honey, what do you want to do tonight?”) or the the increase in unemployment; whatever the cause, the lovebug is getting some serious action these days.
If you are looking to pop the question, the love-sick folks at Portland Center Stage (128 NW Eleventh Ave, 445-3700, pcs.org) are angling to make it worth your while. Riding the wave of their soon-to-be-closed Victorian love-fest, The Importance of Being Earnest, PCS is still feeling twitterpated and they are trying to spread the love. In a March 4 blog post, the company placed a call to arms for people to get engaged in or around PCS’s home, the historic Armory building. If the newly affianced couple then sends in photographic evidence of the joyous occasion, they will receive three pairs of tickets on the house.
So, head over to Tiffany’s (330 SW Yamhill St, 221-5565, tiffany.com) or hit up Gilt (720 NW 23rd Ave, 226-0629, giltjewelry.com) for a one-of-a-kind vintage ring (it is a recession after all!) and make a date. Grab a pre-made picnic basket from Elephant’s Delicatessen (115 NW 22nd Ave, 299-6304, elephantsdeli.com) stuffed with romantic edibles like salami, almonds, olives, brie, freshly baked baguette, seasonal fruit salad, cookies, chocolate mousse and Izze sodas. Then drop to your knee alongside the building in the tiny but lovely Vera Katz Park, or simply make her blush in front of their iconic red lit wall.
Then reap the rewards of your romantic gesture (the tickets AND the girl, silly!) because they’ve got two shows in April that are worth the effort. Storm Large’s much-anticipated Crazy Enough runs through June and the political drama Frost/Nixon opens April 14. And as PR & Publications Manager Trisha Pancio sites, “Nothing says romance like fallen politicians [and] filthy sex kitten rockstars.”

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Portland Unveiled: Getting Hitched in Stumptown Style


By Hollyanna McCollom

Whether you are planning a big to-do or a simple backyard wedding, the big day can be a big headache to plan. It’s easy to get sucked into the hoopla and suddenly find yourself asking, “Do I really need designer suits and a horse-drawn carriage?” Well, if the tiara fits, then go ahead and have the sort of nuptials that would make royalty blush. After all, how often do you get the chance? But if you’re looking for something with a little more character (and a little less pomp), you’re in luck. Thanks to all the designers, artists and other creative types who have flocked here, Portland is one of the hippest cities to get hitched.
Before you start picking dresses and arranging bouquets, you’ll have to invite your wedding day audience. If you’re keen on being green, take a spin through Oblation Papers & Press (oblationpapers.com), an “old-world letterpress print shop, urban paper mill and fine European-style paper boutique” that turns recycled 100% acid-free cotton garments into beautiful old-school cards and invitations. Consider using a plantable invitation that guests can place in a pot with soil and grow wildflowers like bird’s eyes, poppies or snapdragons. Botanical Paperworks (botanicalpaperworks.com) makes 100% post-consumer waste cotton cards, invitations, journals and wedding favors embedded with North American flower seeds that bloom as the paper breaks down.
Want to eschew traditional invitations all together? These days it’s even more acceptable than ever to plan your wedding electronically. Brides are choosing to use online invitations (like evite.com) that will send invites, provide updates and reminders and keep a running tally of guests. E-Brides are also using the internet to build personalized wedding blogs wherein family and friends can read about the day-to-day trials of nuptial planning, offer their insight and share amusing stories.
Next, of course, you have to get dressed. Thanks to Leanne Marshall’s break-out win on last season’s Project Runway, the world started to pay attention to Portland’s fashion scene. But we already knew that P-Town had a bevy of talent, particularly when it comes to wedding gowns. Allison Covington of Amai Unmei (amaiunmei.com) is a favorite amongst local fashionistas for her mix of clean, classic lines and striking colors. Her 2009 bridal collection is no exception with gowns in silk charmeuse, chiffon, embroidered Italian cotton, opulent brocade and raw dupioni silk in colors that mimic a spring garden.

(Wedding coat by Amai Unmei, Photo by Jessica Hill)
In Portland, individuality reigns and designers like Kate Towers (katetowers.com) and Elizabeth Dye (elizabethdye.com) are popular for their one-of-a-kind creations. Towers, a self-taught designer who sells her wares at Seaplane (e-seaplane.com), creates dresses and wraps that seem to echo nature with their wispy, romantic silhouettes and distinctly Northwest palette. Dye, on the other hand, whose ready-to-wear collection is sold at The English Department (theenglishdept.com), seems to craft dresses that look like they stepped out of a fairytale. A self-professed ruffle addict, Dye’s dresses are pretty confections, perfectly suited for both the bride that dreamt of being a ballerina and the one that still fancies herself Ophelia.
At the Alphabet District’s Lena Medoyeff Bridal (lenadress.com), brides are also encouraged to engage their own inner-designer as they try dresses on, swapping out bright colored sashes and bows to create a personal touch. Designer Lynn Medoff (Medoyeff is her original Russian surname) understands that the “perfect dress” should be an extension of the bride’s personality, so her dresses range from understated and simple day dresses to richly embellished gowns rippling with ruffles, hand-painted flowers and lace.
There’s no need for the groom to opt for the standard rental tux, either. Seyta Selter of Duchess Clothier (duchessclothier.com) has been custom-making suits since 2005 and since then she has become the unofficial dresser of guys who believe than looking natty is not an obligation, it’s an art form. For less than it might take to buy an off-the-rack, one-in-a-million suit, Selter can custom make a three-piece suit for your special day that incorporates your colors with colorful linings, hand-made shirts and dapper accents. Last year, Selter paired up with boutique owner Jordan Saylor of Winn Perry (winnperry.com) and began selling her off-the-rack creations alongside Sovereign Beck ties and the remarkably well-crafted Alden boots. Dana Pinkham (pinkhammillinery.com) is another local favorite and nationally recognized milliner who has also sold a few of her creations at Winn Perry. Come to think of it, the addition of a kicking fedora is all the more reason why Winn Perry is a spot every groom should go before agreeing to spend the day in an uncomfortable, ill-fitting suit.
Once the apparel is taken care of, the next big nightmare task is making sure your guests are fed. Planning a menu can be overwhelming, but it doesn’t have to break the bank. If you’re having a daytime affair, you may be able to get away with hor d’oeurves and dessert. Or, plan to have a buffet instead of a sit down meal, but keep the size of your guest list in mind. If you over-plan a buffet, it can end up being more costly. Chloe Fennell of locally-owned Eat Your Heart Out (232-4408, eatyourheartout.biz) notes that it is important to be true to yourself when choosing a menu. She says, "The wedding feast...you create together will be memorable for your guests. Choose the style you feel comfortable with and foods you love or have loved sharing throughout your relationship."
(Photo courtesy of Eat Your Heart Out catering)

Of course, the food is place where couples can really express their creativity. Mandy L. of NE Portland writes to tell us that she went with a carnival theme for her July, 2001 wedding. She says, “We used a hot dog cart and had the tables heaped with big bowls of candy and unshelled peanuts.” Another bride says that members of her Italian family (most of whom are known for their cooking) each brought a signature dish to the reception along with a recipe. Guests were then given a “keepsake cookbook of Italian and Sicilian recipes that had been passed down through generations, some of which had been secret up until that day.” Fennell remarks that personality, not expectation is key when planning the big day, "If there is some quirky food that you both love, even if it's not elegant, you can serve it as an hors d'oeuvres. People have never stopped talking about the time we did a potato chip bar that we served at cocktail hour before the guests sat down to an elegant meal.
(Photo courtesy of Eat Your Heart Out catering)
If you opt for a caterer, make sure you find one that is willing to listen to your needs and accommodate them whenever possible. Make use of the bounty we have here in the Northwest and talk to potential caterers about creating a menu that adopts local favorites or things that are in season at nearby farmers markets.
When it comes to your cake, the sky’s the limit. You can choose an elaborately tiered formal cake, artfully displayed trays of cupcakes or even a collection of fresh NW pies. Portland has a number of bakeries that can cater to your particular desires. Want a vegan cake? Check out Sweetpea Baking Company (sweetpeabaking.com), where they concoct some truly stunning (and tasty!) cakes without using any of those pesky animal products like milk, eggs and butter. Can’t decide on a flavor? Call Seri Lopez at Serious Cake (seriouscake.com). She can make a cake the size of a skyscraper that features one of her 17 flavors in each death-defying layer. Want your cake with a little side of kitsch? Jocelyn Barda is your go-to gal at Bakery Bar (bakerybar.com), where you can get a traditional cake or you could opt for a tattoo-inspired heart with bluejays holding a banner that bears the initials of you and your beloved. What could be more Portland than that?
(Sweetpea Cake, Photo by Katie Marggraf)
If you are planning a wedding this year, keep in mind that even though the economy has been tanking, your love has weathered the storm. It’s okay to celebrate. In fact, it’s encouraged. Sing it from the Burnside Bridge. Shout it from the rooftops of downtown. Enjoy the love that you have found. When you decide to tie the knot, your day should not only be a celebration of your union, but of your individuality as well. After all, that’s the reason why you fell in love in the first place.
(Opening photo courtesy of West Coast Events)